Fusion Wines Ltd.

Suffolk Office

The Coach House
Barton Mills
Suffolk IP28 6AA
+44 (0)1638 510803

When we first met Domaine des Anges' winemaker Ciaràn Rooney, he struck us as a quiet and intensely serious man (he still is where wine is concerned) but he was still new to the job and with both Malcolm Swan and Gay McGuinness (neither of whom could be said to be introverts) present it was difficult for him to do much more than tell us about the wines. Over the years, however, he seems to have warmed to us (despite our being English) and we regularly get together to outdo each other in both wine and cuisine. Ciaràn has a finely-tuned palate which is evident in his wines and he is reassuringly not afraid to embrace modern ideas. The result: some wonderful sun-kissed wines.

Background: Englishman Malcolm Swan purchased the Domaine de Notre Dame des Anges in Mormoiron, Vaucluse in 1973. He took the estate to the top of the appellation, retiring in 1998. The estate's current owner, Kilkenny man Gay McGuinness, appointed Dubliner Ciaràn Rooney as the estate manager and winemaker. Since Parker made the comment below in The Wine Advocate, Domaine des Anges has been regarded as an estate to watch and take seriously.

Winemaker profile: Originally from Dublin, Ciaràn's family moved to South Africa whilst he was still at school. Almost by accident he studied Oenology and Viticulture at Stellenbosch University and gained experience all over the world prior to his arrival in Mormoiron just in time for the 1998 harvest. Ciaràn's CV includes stints at top Bordeaux châteaux such as Lafite Rothschild, the Pauillac premier cru classé, Rieussec (Sauternes) and, coincidentally, Château du Seuil (Graves) as well as leading New World estates such as Tim Knappstein Wines and Tyrells in Australia, Kumeu River (New Zealand), Argyle Wines and Cakebread Cellars (USA) and Thelema and Neil Ellis Wines in South Africa. This international background is very much evident in Ciaràn's wines, particularly his top red, Clos de l'Archange, renamed L'Archange from 2000.

Wines

White - Domaine des Anges Côtes du Ventoux 'L'Archange' 2007

Tasting Notes: Undoubtedly the best vintage yet for Ciaràn Rooney’s flagship white made from pure Roussanne. This has a lovely crispness and clearly defined, honeyed apricot fruit. The light oak ageing will help the wine to mature over several years but it is drinking very well already.
Drinking Dates: 2008 to 2015
Grapes: 100% Roussanne, aged 5 months in oak casks

Domaine des Anges Côtes du Ventoux Rosé 2007 3345166

Lovely, refreshing rosé - a light pink wine with summer berries and confection. Good acidity.
Grapes: Cinsault and Grenache with a dash of Syrah
Winemaking: The Cinsault was picked and then cold-soaked for 24 hours before being pressed, whereas the Grenache juice was "bled" off the skins. After clarification, the wine was fermented at low temperatures, followed by an early bottling to preserve it’s freshness.
Drink: now to end 2009 Food: On its own or with light pasta, charcuterie.
Reviews: "Exotic notes" One star (Guide Hachette 2007)

Red - VDP de Vaucluse Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 3340289
(to be included in Oz Clarke's 2010 "250 Best Wines" guide)

Tasting Notes: Really tasty, fruity Cabernet with lots of black fruit and some Provencal character (a trace of herbs) and good tannic support. Nicely judged oak. Really impressive.
Consumer reviews:"Without wanting to sound pretentious, to me, the nose is hot dry eucalyptus with some rusty nails thrown in. In the mouth, again quite dry, slightly astringent, not too baked, with good fruit and a pleasant finish. I can imagine it being very good with some rustic cheese or a rich herby provencal lamb dish." (J. Pender 23/08/2007)
"Love it!! Really nice wine and enjoyable just on its own." (J. Maling 08/09/2007)